Fall is for Fish & Mushrooms, Among Other Delicacies

Welcome to fall.

Our exploration of food trends associated with the 72 micro-seasons on the Japanese calendar continues with 秋分 Shubun, or Autumn Equinox, which runs from late September to early October.

Fall is when matsutake mushrooms hit dinner tables. The mushrooms grow at the base of Japanese red pine trees. Because they’re difficult to cultivate and in short supply, matsutake are considered an expensive delicacy. They’re used in popular dishes like dobin mushi, a clear soup that’s served in earthenware, or grilled and served with steamed rice. Taro, the ancient root vegetable that was discovered and consumed before rice, is also cultivated during Shubun. It’s seen as a symbol of an abundant harvest and is often cooked with meat and soy sauce to make a stew called imoni. At an imoni festival held in Yamagata each September, more than 30,000 servings of the popular stew are consumed.

Tofu Day also occurs during Shubun. The Japan Tofu Association selected October 2 as the day to celebrate the versatile soymilk creation. Tofu appears in a plethora of Japanese dishes — savory and sweet, hot and cold. It’s consumed with a miso glaze, deep-fried, in dashi broth, in a rice bowl, in miso soup, and in dumplings, among other ways. Los Angeles held its own Tofu Festival from 1995 to 2007. The August event folded due to the redevelopment of Little Tokyo, which eliminated its space. The lowly peanut has its day during Shubun, too. The most popular preparation is dried and salted, though boiled peanuts are gaining fans. Chiba Prefecture is best known for growing peanuts. Finally, we have Pacific saury, or sanma, a long, thin fish that’s fattiest and tastiest in autumn. It was once considered inexpensive, but scarcity has driven up the price. Salted and grilled are the best-known preparations, but in recent years it’s also been served as sashimi.

The next season is 寒露 Kanro, or Cold Dew, which runs from early to late October. Apples are at their peak then. Popular varieties include Fuji, Tsugaru, and Ōrin, which started out as Western varieties before being modified in Japan. Two other types of mushrooms are also associated with Kanro. Shimeji and hiratake mushrooms grow wild in forests and are known for being rich in umami flavor. You’ll find them in stir-fries, soups, and pastas. Finally, Kanro brings mackerel season. The king of blue-backed fish is at its best from fall through winter. Mackerel is a popular choice for sashimi, but is also served salted, grilled, cooked in miso, or vinegared.