Micro-Seasons Bring a Bounty of Seasonal Flavors

Seasonal eating became trendy in America in the early 2000s, when champions like Chez Panisse’s Alice Waters argued that “Farm to Table” consumption was the healthy way to go.

But Japan was way ahead of the curve when it came to putting seasonal food on the table.

The traditional Japanese calendar recognizes 72 micro-seasons driven by subtle changes in the natural world, including its food products. The custom ties back to the Japanese people’s long-held respect for nature and the Shinto belief that natural elements are sacred homes for spirits.

The late August season is known as 処暑 Shosho, or Manageable Heat. It signals the end of summer, when high temperatures begin to abate. In some parts of Japan, the rice harvest also begins around this time. Shosho is also the season for figs, which are often used to make jams and compotes. Sudachi, which resembles a lime but has a more complex flavor, similarly arrives in late August. The fruit appears in many dishes and is believed to prevent colds, treat exhaustion, and restore the skin. Shosho may be best known as the peak season for a popular little fish. Sardines are at their fattiest from late August through autumn, when they’re served raw, grilled, or in fish balls. Popular preparations include butterflied and glazed sardines, as well as sardines simmered in a sauce.

The next season is 白露 Hakuro, or White Dew, which runs from early to late September. The name refers to the seasonal shift that occurs when moisture in the air cools to form dew. Konbu, the edible sea kelp known for its rich umami flavor, has been a staple of the Japanese diet since at least 10,000 BC and is primarily harvested and dried during this season. Konbu is extremely versatile. It’s used in dashi broth, simmered in soy sauce as a topping, wrapped around raw fish as a cure, and dried and salted to make a snack. Hakuro is also eggplant season. The vegetable is popularly pan-fried with a sweet miso glaze, deep-fried and soaked in dashi broth, or flame-grilled with ginger and soy sauce.

Hungry for more? The great thing about micro-seasons is that there’s always another one right around the corner.